PondTools

Bluegill

How to grow big bluegill in a pond

Big bluegill come from ponds that hold far fewer bluegill than they could, and the tool that thins them is a crowd of small bass that nobody takes home. Release every bass under 15 inches, feed a high protein floating pellet, put back every bluegill over 8 inches, eat the 6 to 8 inch fish, and expect to wait several years.

Why most ponds grow small bluegill

Every pond makes more bluegill than it can feed, and if nothing eats the surplus the pond fills with fish that share the same insects and never get ahead. The Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources describes the result: "Overpopulated ponds are full of 3 to 5 inch bluegills that are thin and slow growing." The Illinois Department of Natural Resources names the cause: "The cause for most bluegill problems is traceable to overharvest of largemouth bass and/or to the overharvest of large bluegill." Taking home the 2 pound bass and taking home the hand-sized bluegill both push the pond toward small fish.

What the authoritative sources say

The Missouri Department of Conservation's Managing for Large Bluegill lays out the method. It starts with bass: "To grow large bluegill, you also need lots of largemouth bass in the pond. Bass feed on small bluegill, reducing their numbers so larger bluegill do not have to continually compete with smaller bluegill for available food." It says how to keep those bass in the pond: "Maintaining a high-density bass population using a 15-inch minimum length limit will control bluegill numbers." It caps the bluegill harvest: "In most cases, no more than 50 adult bluegill should be harvested per acre per year." And it asks for patience: "Keep in mind that it normally takes at least 6 years for a bluegill to reach 8 inches in length." If you cannot see 18 inches into the water most of the year, it says, "it is fruitless to try raising large bluegill."

Illinois agrees: "Put a 15" length limit on largemouth bass, especially for the first three years." For a pond already stunted, the bluegill "need to be drastically 'thinned' out." Penn State Extension says "A bluegill-crowded pond has many small bluegill and just a few large bass," and that it "can be balanced over time by protecting all bass in the pond (no bass harvest)." Alabama Extension puts it as "Quality bream fishing can be managed by regulating the harvest of bass."

Numbers from the authoritative sources
MeasureValue and source
Bass length limit15-inch minimum (Missouri, Illinois)
Adult bluegill harvestNo more than 50 per acre per year (Missouri)
Time to an 8-inch bluegillAt least 6 years, normally (Missouri)
Pellet proteinAt least 25 percent, floating, eaten in 15 to 20 minutes (Missouri)
Minimum visibility18 inches most of the year (Missouri)

Coppernose, redear and hybrids

Coppernose are a Florida subspecies of bluegill. Texas A&M reports that "a study found that coppernose bluegill grew larger than east and west Texas bluegill when grown together in ponds," and that "Laboratory tests have shown that the coppernose bluegill has the same cold tolerance as native Texas bluegill." Mississippi State Extension (publication 1428) is cooler: "Ultimate performance of the bluegill depends more on the quality of your management program than on the strain stocked." No authoritative source I found gives a northern limit for coppernose.

Redear are a different species that eats snails. Missouri says "This sunfish can grow to 12 inches" but "They reproduce poorly in ponds when competing with bass and bluegill," so they go in as a minority, such as Mississippi's "350 bluegill and 150 redear sunfish" per acre. Hybrid bluegill are a cross with green sunfish. Alabama warns that "They are not sterile as is sometimes claimed. Most are males, but if females are present they will reproduce," and that "Every 3 to 4 years the pond will need to be drained and restocked." Missouri adds that "These hybrids grow larger and more rapidly than regular bluegill, but the difference is slight without artificial feeding."

What Pond Boss forum members do

The two senior voices are Bill Cody (Moderator) and Bruce Condello (Moderator). Cody's archive thread Growing Some Big Bluegill opens with the bass rule in its strongest form: "The pond should be bass heavy with the population dominated by 6"-12" bass," with "At most only a few larger bass per acre and whenever you catch one 15"-16" remove it," because "Harvesting one 16"+ LMB makes room for 3-6 smaller bass that eat more little BG (1"-3")." He feeds a 41 percent protein pellet rather than 32 percent catfish food, removes catfish because they eat the pellets, and reports that "Growth from 1.5" fingerlings to very nice 7"-8" fish in just 4 months is possible even in northern ponds." In a follow-up he adds the harvest rule: measure every fish, "Harvest primarily females," harvest "all thin bodied individuals," and return plump fish as broodstock.

His An Essay On Bluegill Harvest gives the northern research: anglers at Mid-Lake, Wisconsin removed 35 percent of the bluegill over 6 inches in the first month, and "It can take up to 7 to 10 years to replace or regrow a large bgill on natural food sources in northern waters." Big males suppress maturation in smaller males, so removing them makes the whole population mature smaller. Condello's summary of that work, Bluegill Harvest Guidelines, says to "Remove about 30% to 40% of the mid-size bluegill (which often amounts to 20 to 30 6-8" fish per acre per year)" and to take only "three to six of the biggest bluegill per acre per year," with a fed-pond growth expectation of 6.5 to 8 inches at age 2 and 9.5 to 10 inches at age 5.

Outcomes match that pace. Condello caught an age-2 bluegill in Nebraska at 9.5 inches and just over one pound. catmandoo (Moderator) in Virginia culled 9 to 10 inch fish and caught 12 inch bluegill. ewest (Moderator, Hall of Fame) reports southern ponds on heavy feeding growing coppernose to 12 inches in 18 months. Cody wrote that proper 40 percent pellet feeding produces more 2-pound-plus bluegill, more likely in the south but possible up north with more time.

On coppernose in the north the forum is firm where the agencies are silent: ewest says they "do not flourish in colder climates" and suffer "substantial winter kill in northern US regions," and Cody says they "do not survive well in ponds that get ice cover." On hybrids, Condello calls them "strong early growers but not genetically as large in potential as pure bluegill." Not everyone on the forum agrees. ewest cites research in which density and harvest mortality explained little about growth beyond prey abundance and temperature, and catmandoo does little catch and release because it makes his fish hook shy.

Where the tiers differ

Both tiers agree on the method. The numbers differ in three places. Missouri's "at least 6 years" to 8 inches describes natural food; the forum's 8 inches by age 2 or 3 comes from ponds fed 40 percent protein daily, well above Missouri's 25 percent floor. The 15-inch limit protects bass, while Cody also removes bass above 15 or 16 inches so more small bass remain; no extension source I found recommends that, or the harvest-females rule, so treat both as practitioner experience. And the coppernose cold limit circulates without an agency number, while Texas A&M's laboratory result points the other way, so the forum's winter-kill reports are the only guide for ice-covered ponds.

What to do

  1. Start by diagnosing the pond. Measure everything you catch; if you see many 3 to 5 inch bluegill and few bass, the pond is bluegill-crowded. Weigh a few in the PondTools fish-condition calculator (also standalone), which takes species, total length in inches and weight in pounds and ounces; thin fish confirm crowding.
  2. Stop harvesting bass. Release every bass under 15 inches for at least three years. In a stunted pond, thin small bluegill with traps and angling while the bass build up.
  3. Set a bluegill slot. Eat the 6 to 8 inch fish, especially females and thin fish, and release everything over 8 inches. The PondTools harvest calculator (also standalone) takes pond area in acres, whether the pond is unfertilized, fertilized or fed daily, and the goal; set it to trophy bluegill for a yearly take by size.
  4. Start feeding. With 18 inches of visibility, feed a floating pellet around 40 percent protein for the amount eaten in 15 to 20 minutes, once a day while the water is between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The PondTools feeding calculator (also standalone) takes the weight of fish fed, water temperature, fish group and the price of a 50 pound bag.
  5. Keep competitors out, which means no catfish, crappie or green sunfish. For a new or renovated pond, the PondTools stocking-plan calculator (also standalone) takes area, fertilization, region, and whether to include redear or catfish; set the goal to trophy bluegill. Stock coppernose only where the pond does not ice over.
  6. Then wait, and keep records. Expect 8 inch fish in two or three summers with daily feeding, and five or six years without it. Keep a length log.

Sources